The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've noticed individuals hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of growers who make wine from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the World
To date, the grower's plot is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help cities remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from development by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Throughout the City
The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a fence on